It would be a step too far to suggest that
“wine” and “OD” are one and the same, but it is the case that wine and ODs, brought
together, bring out the best in one another.
Anthony Record MBE (S, 1956) owns Domaine Gayda (left), a magnificent wine estate
near Carcassonne in the Languedoc region of France. 20 ODs and their wives gathered
together at the Domaine in the middle
of May to savour the delights of the area and enjoy the conviviality and immediate
friendship generated by our shared Bishops background.
Peter Elliott (W, 1967) and his wife Maddy
have retired to the region and are experts on where to go, what to see and,
crucially, what to drink. And they generously shared their knowledge and love of
Carcassonne, and the surrounding area, with all of us who enjoyed tremendously
what they had to recount of the region.
A slight breakdown in communication between
one part of the OD contingent and Ryanair at Stansted, meant the tour got off
to a somewhat fragmented, but not too grumpy, start. A late arrival in Toulouse
(from Gatwick, our emergency replacement airport) a midnight dash to Domaine Gayda and finally a late nightcap only
served to heighten the sense of anticipation of the trip which quickly re-established
its rhythm.
For those who had made the scheduled
arrival time, Peter Elliott led a tasting of the local Domaine La Louvière wines which was followed by the first
of two superb meals laid on by Gayda,
where we were accommodated.
The following morning, the convoy of ODs left
Gayda for the Cité de Carcassonne where, despite the challenges presented by
arcane French road signs, our tour of the fortified medieval city, led by Peter,
commenced. Inclement weather forced us into an earlier-than-scheduled stop at a
patisserie for a rowdy but vital morning coffee break, and then off again for a
walk around the Chateau Comtal, the historic castle.
Returning to our tour of the Cité (the
weather now slightly improved), the highlight for some was a visit to the
gothic Basilica of Saint Nazaire, and for others it was the alternative
pleasure of the exquisite nougat shop. The Basilica, the original buildings dating from the 6th century, is beautiful beyond words. In the Basilica, we were fortunate
to hear a Russian Trio literally singing for their supper – and sing they did, producing
the sound, it almost seemed, of a massed choir of forty. Quite magical.
But not magical enough to keep us from our
lunch which we had at the Restaurant Adelaide. This, as with pretty much
everything else, was organised by Peter Elliott who had teed up “light lunches”
to allow for “heavy dinners”. Nevertheless, the salads were substantial and
delicious and the wine (and beer) flowed. Inevitably, certain members of the party felt it
their civic duty to flirt outrageously with the (female) staff who took this boarding
school behaviour in their cheerful stride. ODs never change, and c'est la France.
Completely off plan, but typical of their
generosity throughout, Maddy and Peter Elliott invited the party back to their
home at Domaine de Cantaloup for afternoon
tea and to meet Molly, their utterly adorable boxer dog. They have an extensive
property (smallholding really) outside the city on which a local winemaker is
planting vines, and they grow their own vegetables. For the OD party it
provided a welcome respite from the midday eating and drinking.
That evening, back at Gayda, Peter took us
through a tasting of the wonderful wines of Domaine
Rose+Paul whose wines will – in part – be made in future from grapes to be grown
on the Elliotts’ farm. This was followed by a braai, dans le style français. We were delighted to have Anthony and Carole Record with us. Not only did this give us the opportunity to thank Anthony for putting us up (or, perhaps, putting up with us) but also allowed him the chance to present the history of Domaine Gayda and explain the inexplicable relationship between viticultural development and the town's planning council. Intractable committees, he pointed out, called for creative solutions. Enough said. There followed huge platters of lamb and fish, and limitless wine all of which stretched the gastronomic fortitude even of ODs.
Everything comes with a price, though, and the
following day we headed for the Montagne
Noire to walk – strenuously – from the Prise d’Alzeau. The Prise d’Alzeau
is the source of a water channel that feeds the Canal du Midi, and the walk itself led us through a beech forest. Molly
joined us and set a cracking pace, until exhausted, we returned to the mountain
restaurant Prise d'Alzeau for another
“glass of lunch” and a very good meal.
Then onto Montolieu, an old historic
textile town and book village, with fifteen bookshops. Unbeknown to our tour
guide Montolieu is fermé le mercredi, Wednesday being a traditional day off
for the overworked French! So even the experts can get it wrong.
Most book shops and cafés were therefore closed, but this did not prevent the
determined book lovers from hunting down a volume of choice in the few shops resistant
to closure. And, of course, it takes more than a centuries-old custom of a day of
rest to beat a team of determined, thirsty ODs, and a tea shop – specifically one willing
to serve Armagnac to keep us going until the evening’s wine-tasting and
dinner – was located and enjoyed.
Our last supper, as it were, began with a
wine-tasting of the Domaine Gayda
wines. The Domaine has a broad range of
wines made by Vincent Chansault who did much of his training at
Boekenhoutskloof in South Africa. Vincent is charming, irrepressibly engaging
and wildly passionate about what he does, and this entails challenging local conventions.
The result is really splendid wines which reflect his own enquiring nature and
love of the grape.
Dinner afterwards was in the new
restaurant, Bourdasso chez Domaine Gayda.
Our expectations were surpassed aided not a little by a donation of three
bottles of Anthony Record’s seriously fine prize-winning Chemin de Moscou.
The following day, Thursday 17th,
was our last. We shipped off to Limoux for
another splendid lunch on the central plaza, and where we evaluated the Cremant, the local pink fizz. It scored
well.
As did the entire visit. Massive thanks from
all of us go the Anthony and Carole Record and Peter and Maddy Elliott. There
is still a little wine left in Carcassonne, but not much. For that we can’t blame
them. 2018 promises to be a good year and this will replenish stocks to allow for another visit by thirsty ODs in future.
The full list of the tour party is at the bottom of this post.
Click on the photos to enlarge (in the enlarged mode, captions are not visible. Press the right arrow to move to the next picture).
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The ODs
From the top, left column: Mark Charnock, Henry von Moltke, Nick Heesom and John Brimble
Middle column: Peter Elliott, Jeremy Friedlander and Caelim Parkes
Right column: Steve Hofmeyr, Peter Syfret and Anthony Record |
Cité de Carcassonne
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| Audrey Hofmeyr, Nick Heesom, Caelim Parkes, Wendy Heesom, Peter Elliott and Steve Hofmeyr |
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| Claire and Jeremy Friedlander, Mairi Brimble, Peter Elliott and Henry von Molkte |
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| Mairi Brimble, Peter Syfret and Mark Charnock |
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| Jeremy Friedlander and Steve Hofmeyr |
Chateau Comtal
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| But is it art? The Chateau Comtal had been "enhanced" by a Swiss artist to ... well no one was entirely sure. Standing (and barely discernible) in the bulls-eye of the Port d'Aude of the chateau are Jeremy and Claire Friedlander, John Brimble, Maddy Elliott, Mairi Brimble and Steve Hofmeyr |
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| Marie Syfret |
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| Nick Heesom, Marie Syfret, Margie Charnock and Wendy Heesom |
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| Nicky Bicket, Margie Charnock, Wendy Heesom, Marie Syfret and Mark Charnock |
The Basilica of Saint Nazarius
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| Margie Charnock, Claire and Jeremy Friedlander, Peter and Maddy Elliott (in red jacket) |
Restaurant Adelaide
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| Claire and JeremyFriedlander, Ingeborg and Henry von Moltke |
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| Audrey and Steve Hofmeyr |
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| Jeremy Friedlander, Maddy Elliott and Claire Friedlander |
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| Mairi Brimble, Caelim Parkes, Steve Hofmeyr and Peter Elliott |
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| (l) Mairi Brimble, Caelim Parkes; (r) Jeremy and Claire Friedlander, Marie Syfret |
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| Ingeborg von Moltke |
Tea with Peter and Maddy Elliott
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| Caelim Parkes, John Brimble, Mark Charnock, Maddy Elliott, Nick and Wendy Heesom, Peter Syfret, Audrey and Steve Hofmeyr |
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| Left: Peter Elliott; right: Nick Heesom, Steve Hofmeyr, John Brimble, Claire and Jeremy Friedlander |
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| Caelim Parkes, Mairi Brimble, Nick Heesom, Mark Charnock and Wendy Heesom |
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| A much needed rest at the Elliotts: John Brimble, Mark Charnock, Mairi Brimble, Peter Syfret, Nick Heesom and Marie Syfret. Lolling in the front are Nicky Bicket and Caelim Parkes. |
The braai (dans le style français)
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| The dinner, with Anthony Record in full flight |
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| Anthony explaining how two stained glass windows equates to one large winery. Listening and learning are Peter Syfret, Audrey Hofmeyr, Marie Syfret and Henry von Moltke |
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| Mark Charnock, Ingeborg von Moltke, Carole record, John Brimble, Margie Charnock, Jeremy Friedlander and Mairi Brimble |
The Montagne Noir and Prise d'Alzeau
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| Getting ready to start the walk, Molly on the left |
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| After the walk: Mairi Brimble, Steve and Audrey Hofmeyr and Nicky Bicket |
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After the lunch - team photo:
back: Nick Heesom, Caelim Parkes, Steve Hofmeyr, Ingeborg and Henry von Moltke, Jeremy and Claire Friedlander, John and Mairi Brimble, Peter Syfret and Audrey Hofmeyr
front: Nicky Bicket, Maddy and Peter Elliott and Margie Charnock |
Montolieu - the City of Books
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| Sleepy yet literary |
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| Looking forward to the afternoon Armagnac: Nick Heesom and Peter Syfret |
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| Looking forward to looking at books: John Brimble, Ingeborg von Moltke, Peter Elliott and Henry von Moltke |
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| At a high point in the village: Nick Heesom, Henry von Moltke, Peter Elliott, Peter Syfret and John Brimble |
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Afternoon tea in the road, not a soul in sight:
top: Claire Friedlander, Margie Charnock, John and Mairi Brimble
bottom: Audrey Hofmeyr, Nick Heesom and Peter Syfret |
Our final evening - a tasting of Gayda wines and dinner in the restaurant
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Discussing tasting strategies:
top: Nick Heesom, Maddy Elliott and Jeremy Friedlander; Peter Syfret and Henry von Moltke;
bottom: Mark Charnock and Ingeborg von Moltke; Margie Charnock and Claire Friedlander |
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| Our intrepid Gayda winemaker: Vincent Chansault |
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| Ingeborg von Moltke, Maddy Elliott, John Brimble and Marie Syfret |
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| Jeremy and Claire Friedlander, Margie Charnock and Henry von Moltke |
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| Mairi Brimble, Wendy and Nick Heesom, Peter Syfret, Ingeborg von Molkte, Maddy Elliott, John Brimble and Marie Syfret |
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| Some wines were more amusing than others: Nick Heesom and Peter Syfret ... |
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| ... and some more serious: Ingeborg von Moltke and Maddy Elliott |
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| Steve Hofmeyr thanks Vincent |
Then dinner:
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| Audrey Hofmeyr and John Brimble |
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| Wendy Heesom, Nick Heesom and Maddy Elliott |
Then speeches:
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| First Mark Charnock ... |
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| ... then Peter Elliott ... |
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| ... until it all became too much for Steve Hofmeyr. |
And finally onto Limoux for our farewell lunch:
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| Wendy Heesom, Mark Charnock, Peter Syfret, Marie Syfret, Nicky Bicket, Nick Heesom, Mairi and John Brimble |
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